This is a week of obscurities, interesting provenance, and once in a lifetime opportunities. There’s a little something for everyone, including an Omega with automotive provenance, a Rolex which you’re likely not expecting, and not one, but two full set chronographs of the absolute highest quality from Heuer and Breitling. Throwing a curveball into the mix, we’ve got a one-off Laurent Ferrier produced in collaboration with an English dealer that I’d do bad, bad things for. Without delay, here’s your roundup for the week.
Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic Tourbillon
Much of the appeal of a great vintage watch boils down to the fact that what’s on your wrist likely isn’t on that of the next guy in the room. Whether you want to label that as exclusivity or individuality is up to you, but there’s something undeniably special about that feeling. Given the far easier acquisition process of most modern offerings, this sensation is harder to realize, making unique pieces the logical move for those in search of something truly special. Of the many names to create one-off novelties, few do it more tastefully than Laurent Ferrier, who consistently delivers timeless and mechanically sophisticated designs through his independent watchmaking outfit.
Last week, what might be the ultimate configuration to date of my favourite Laurent Ferrier reference was replica watches uk released in conjunction with A Collected Man. With a stainless steel case, this Galet Classic Tourbillon is immediately among the ranks of the most sought after pieces in existence by the brand, given that only 18 of these cases have been produced, and all house the Cal. LF619.01. For context, we’re talking about a modern interpretation of Laurent Ferrier’s first watch, complete with a double spiral tourbillon, and cased in stainless steel. All of this adds up to a massively significant piece from not only a collector’s perspective, but in the eyes of the manufacture itself.
Even if you didn’t know it was cased in stainless steel, or one of so very few pieces, it would be easy to recognize this as no ordinary watch after only a quick glance. Its taupe enamel dial with applied Breguet numerals can be thanked for this, affording the 40 mm timepiece a quiet elegance. It’s also one of the more unique enamel dials I’ve encountered, with a decidedly organic looking textured surface. Designing a highly complicated and important watch that doesn’t demand attention is not an easy task to pull off, and one that’s deserving of recognition. I’ll be interested to see what sort of collection this ends up in.
London’s A Collected Man has this collaborative, one-of-a-kind Laurent Ferrier listed on their website for £135,000. Don’t sleep on this one, because after it’s gone, there won’t be another.
1973 Rolex Cellini King Midas Ref. 4017
When in the market for a new watch, most eccentric types of individual taste I know have rarely opted for a Rolex — a decision which I perfectly understand. Although they’re incredibly well designed and over-engineered, most of the brand’s offerings just don’t have that avant-garde flair to scratch the horological itch of this discriminating crowd. Over the years, the watchmaker itself has been wholly aware of this notion, and while not exactly concerned with addressing this market, an attempt was once at doing so. This resulted in the asymmetrical King Midas, which was produced in extremely limited numbers until its eventual discontinuation. In most forms, it’s not exactly my bag, but there is one variant that I’d happily welcome into my collection.
Following the original Ref. 9630 and its successor, the Ref. 3580, the King Midas design was later branded as a Cellini collection model. Of the multiple references that made up this unconventional Rolex’s second chapter, those mounted on exotic leather straps are perhaps the most compelling. This is because unlike the bracelet fitted models, these watches are even more un-Rolex than their already bizarro counterparts, in a way that’s almost reminiscent of Gilbert Albert designs produced by Patek Philippe. There’s just something so special about a daringly different watch from a brand best known for continually operating within a tightly defined framework.
Judging this example of the Ref. 4017 just as you would any other Rolex of the same vintage, there’s a lot to love here from both a condition and configuration perspective. Most impressively, this piece is being offered with its original caseback sticker still attached to its untouched 18k case, which houses a rich burgundy dial. Upon leaving the factory, this watch was mounted on a matching burgundy crocodile strap, which is still present and in terrific shape. Without question, this example was only worn a handful of occasions over the past several decades, and it shows.
If you’re after a different sort of Rolex, Gai Gohari of Classic Watch is selling this Cellini King Midas for $5,500. Further details and photos can be found here.
Breitling Top Time Ref. 815-3
As I said towards the end of last year — a whole month and a change ago — Breitling chronographs quickly became an unexpected focus of mine over the course of 2019. In addition to the usual Navitimer and Chronomat fare, the Swiss brand produced a number outstanding pieces which don’t get nearly enough attention in today’s market. My favourite of the under-loved bunched is the Top Time, and after catching wind of an outstanding example, I simply had to include it in this week’s roundup.
You’re looking at the Ref. 815-3, best known for its oversized case and panda dial. The word “wow” is quite literally in the seller’s listing title, and with very good reason. First things first, let’s discuss condition, which in the case of this piece is about as close as it gets to perfection. Though I’d argue the term “new old stock” is only warranted if a watch has genuinely never seen the light of day, I’ll give this piece a pass as it’s clean to the point of passing as a well executed reissue. Should you need any convincing, review the high resolution dial shot, which the dealer could honestly sell in framed form. Like the aforementioned Rolex, this is a watch that was rarely worn if ever at all.
Making this Top Time all the more fake Breitling appealing is the presence of original warranty papers, instruction manual, and box, all of which correctly correspond with the specific example at hand. Unlike certain chronographs from other brands, it’s far less often that you come across a full set Breitling, and even more seldom that the watch inside happens to remain in absolutely pristine shape. Factor in the “long playing” 52-hour power reserve of this piece, and there really is nothing to not like.
Shuck The Oyster of Berlin is currently replica watches uk offering this stunning Top Time, which will set you back €6,500. Click here for the full scoop.
