This week is dedicated to tool replica watches – those engineered to fulfill particular purposes under specific, often difficult circumstances. The Patek Amagnetic Reference 3417 demonstrates that such watches do not need to be bulky and rough-looking to deliver results. Also expect to find an aviation chronograph from Jardur, a dive watch from Zenith, and a controversial military Lemania. This is your Bring A Loupe for August 5, 2016.
Jardur Bezelmeter 960, With Flying Log
Usually, watches with gold-plated cases are not recommended here in Bring A Loupe, but this Jardur was too special to be overlooked. The Jardur Bezelmeter 960 was manufactured almost exclusively for pilots, with the rotating bezel indicating the remaining duration of a flight (the bezel is designed to be used as a countdown timer). This example comes with the log of its original owner, a female flight instructor who described the flights of her pupils in 1946, in planes such as the Piper J-3 and the Stearman. The watch also come with a personalized engraving on the caseback, which increases the charm of this Valjoux-72 powered chronograph.
WatchesToBuy is offering this lovely Jardur for $3,950 here.
fake Patek Philippe “Amagnetic” Calatrava Reference 3417
The reference 3417 is a very special watch in Patek Philippe’s history. It might look like a dress watch but the elegant “Amagnetic” script on the dial also reveals its uncommon anti-magnetic properties. Furthermore, the 3417 was only available with a 35 mm stainless steel case, a metal rarely used by Patek at the time. It was produced from 1958 to 1970, and it is estimated than no more than 600 watches were made (not all of which had the delicate Amagnetic signature on the dial). The example here used the hand-wound caliber 27-AM 400, indicating it was produced after 1960. The small seconds register also indicates a second execution dial, which narrows the date range down even further to 1963 to 1970, according to the The Complete Guide To The Patek Philippe Reference 3417 Amagnetic that we covered here.
You can find this rare and beautiful Patek Amagnetic listed on The Keystone for $60,000 here. Note that the watch comes with the original box and an extract from the archives.
Zenith S.58, An Uncommon Diver
The Zenith S.58 is a personal favorite of mine. It’s a gorgeous vintage diver that is generally overlooked nonetheless. As its name implies, it was originally launched in 1958, first with a hand-wound movement, and in 1960 and automatic caliber was added. Here we have the latter version. The S.58 was obviously built tough with practicality in mind, with a 37mm waterproof case, a rotating bakelite bezel, and lumed numerals on the dial. The deeply engraved case back is another attraction of this Zenith, clearly showing its reference number. In short, it is a very attractive package for a fraction of the price of a contemporary Rolex Submariner, which, at the time, did not even offer a date.
Matthew Bain is offering this beautifully patinated Zenith S.58 for $5,900 here.
Tudor Chronograph Reference 94300, With Exotic Dial And Original Sticker
The dimensions of this watch make it obvious why it received the nickname “Big Block.” At a solid 40mm, it is considerably bigger than the 1970s Rolex Daytonas, whose case diameters barely reached 37 mm. Here, the case seems in good unpolished condition, with thick lugs and crisp bevels. This family of Tudor is powered by the workhorse Valjoux 7750 and can also be considered the first automatic chronographs from Rolex, as the Daytona was only fitted with a modified Zenith El Primero in 1988. The black dial with contrasting orange numerals offers a very interesting layout, with the date at 3 o’clock and the minute counter at 12 o’clock. Note that the case back still bears the original sticker with the reference number.
Iconic Watch Company listed this funky Tudor chronograph for $12,000 here; I wish I had previously bid on it on Ebay here.
fake breitling Top Time Reference 810
This three-register Top Time obviously offers a very attractive reverse panda dial. It also comes with an interesting 38 mm case, which is a nice increase from the standard 35-36mm size commonly found on similar chronographs from competing brands. Here, the handset follows the black and white color scheme of the dial, something characteristic of later Top Time production (and consistent with the thicker second execution case). The hands seem a bit short, but this quirk has been observed on several other Top Time reference 810 and in a Breitling catalog from 1969 that you can find here. It is hard to tell from the picture whether the crown is signed with an engraved “B,” but it should be if it’s an original part.
You can find this Breitling offered for sale here.
Bidder Beware – A Lemania “Viggen”, With Inconsistent Parts (UPDATED)
UPDATE: We were contacted by the seller immediately after this story went live and it turns out the errors in the listing were unintentional. He corrected them and has published an updated listing on his website with the correct information which you can find here. This was a case of mistaken identity more than anything and it was an honest mistake. The text below is the original text and has not been altered to reflect the new listing.
The Lemania “Viggen” is a gorgeous chronograph made for the Swedish military; we covered a very nice one here. Prices have been steadily climbing, but I would not consider the one listed for $7,000 on Ebay here. The case, dial, handset and crowns are correct for a Lemania reference 817, but I would not say the same about two essential parts, the bezel and the case back.
The case back is not fake, but it should have had the characteristic “Tre Konor” (the three crowns being the emblem of the Swedish Army). Knowing that the Viggen was not sold as a civilian version, a smooth case back sounds problematic. And the bezel is replica watches obviously wrong – with its Zenith Cairelli look, it most probably belongs to the Lemania with the same reference, but delivered to the South African Air Force. At the end, I would recommend staying clear of this semi-Viggen.
